8.9

Appearance - 9 | Aroma - 8.5 | Flavor - 9 | Texture - 9 | Overall - 9

The last of these 'season geuzes' I had to taste to complete the series, consisting of four one-offs bottled in 2010 and released during that year's Toer de Geuze, bearing in mind that a financial boost was much needed after the infamous 'thermostate incident' - luckily things turned out very well for this monumental brewery. Each of the four was created with lambic from the last fifty barrels that were left at the time containing lambic brewed by 3 Fonteinen itself (after picking up brewing in 1998) and each was blended in a different season, leading to subtle nuances due to the lambics being in different stages of development. A total of 17,000 bottles were released, but the share of each of the four in this total has, to my knowledge, never been revealed. This spring version, coming from an elegant spumante bottle like the others, is often cited as the finest of them all, and after hatching it for five years (I bought it from a private collector in Tervuren in 2018), it has now reached the respectable age of thirteen years and three months - even surpassing its 'best before' date by three years. One does not open a 'whale' like this very often, but I could not resist anymore, in the wake of a beautiful late spring weekend so here we are. Moussy and dense, eggshell-white, shred-lacing, medium thick and tiny-bubbled head, retaining remarkably well in relation to the age of the bottle; initially misty, deep amber-glowing orange blonde robe with a steady column of relatively slowly rising, minute bubbles in the middle; only in the very end does the dead yeast deposit transform this idyll into a murky deep brown (remarkably with no significant influence on the flavour, though). Deeply noble and mature bouquet of apple vinegar, very strong dry wood to even timber and sawdust, pickled apricots, dusty (rather than damp) cellar, oloroso, old dry madera, dried bread crust, withering dandelion, moist tree leaves, very old white wine, cold tea, red plum and plum peel, background hints (growing stronger as the bottle is gradually emptied and warming up) of dried orange peel, damp earth, horse stable, wet old leather, pan-fried chanterelles, purple gooseberries - all shifting colours and following up on each other in a wonderful 'kaleidoscope' of impressions with each new sip. Estery onset, red plum- and purple gooseberry-like fruitiness next to crabapple and sour grape; dry from the start in a gentle way, with an underlying minerality from soft effervescence - no doubt softened by age. Cereally, bready, wheaty backbone under ongoing red and green fruitiness, pickled citrus peel effects and apple vinegar but nowhere actually vinegary or harsh, instead maintaining a 'mals' character throughout, pierced by very dry lactic tartness and strong woody tannins. The woodiness becomes even more pronounced in the finish, where it is joined by retronasal oxidation in a very dry sherry-like way, more so than the other Armand'4 versions I had at a bit less age - prompting me to conclude that these bottles are probably over their peak by now. Still, this dry sherry effect lays a beautiful layer of extra complexity onto the whole and fits in wonderfully, so the oxidation in this case does not disturb me at all, on the contrary - it only adds to the experience. Right underneath this effect lie the workings of the Brettanomyces, with extra dryness, horse stable, wet leather and damp farmland aspects having become quite pronounced; in the end, amidst all this funkiness, tanninity and dryness, a brief but crisp note of sour fruit (somewhere in between wild apple and unripe citrus fruit) pops up, reviving everything. Beneath it all and in the very last act, the aged Challenger hops echo in the distance with a dim bitter note - but crisp sour fruit, wood and Bretty dryness eventually combine to a perfect, long, contemplative finish. It calls for respect, even awe, that this bottle contains lambic brewed by the late - and greatly lamented - Armand Debelder, one of the most inspiring 'beer personalities' I ever had the pleasure to meet; he was very justly proud of this series ('"Armand'4" literally referring to that), which has left a deep impression on me, even if I will always regret not having bought and tasted them all young. Then again, tasting these four seasons at four totally different ages (Winter young and fresh, Summer at ten years of age, Herfst at eleven years and this Lente at thirteen years) was a very interesting ride as well. Glad I completed this circle - all I can do now is stare at the beautiful empty bottle in front of me and pay a final salute to the great Armand Debelder. Cheers Armand, and thank you for all the wonderful tasting experiences you have given to the world.

8.8

Appearance - 9 | Aroma - 9 | Flavor - 8.5 | Texture - 9 | Overall - 8.5

Bottle at Lambic o Droom. Slight hazy deep golden. Deep funk, caramel, peach, light herbal, vanilla, strong oak, a hint if berries. Quite some age, but quite vibrant.

9

Let’s get the seasons started! Fine and delicate. Perfect effervescent carbonation and mouthfeel. Notes of tobacco, a herbal spicyness. Subtle lemon. Minimal age notes adding to the complexity.

10

Nose: bright crispy green apple and nectarine. Hint of Moscato notes as well. Palate: super soft and smooth, rich, low tannins, coats your mouth. Notes of juicy stone fruit and super clean finish.

8

O, juz czuc wiec niezle, w aromacie w taka slodka strone, jakwilgotna sloma i papier jakby? Serowych, camambertowych takich nut niemalo. W uscie kwasnosc pod kontrola, grzeczne, dosc chlalne. Spodziewalem sie w sumie wiecej, ale i tak jest git, acz chyba

9

Appearance - 10 | Aroma - 9 | Flavor - 8 | Texture - 10 | Overall - 9

Bottle @ Pre Thermostat Incident share. Pours lightly hazy, vivid orange with a massive frothy slightly offwhite head. Aromas of oranges, lightly bready, citrus, lightly oxidative, peaches. Taste is bitter, quite developed but nice acidity, oranges, mandarin, light sesame seeds, peaches, lightly minty finish.

7.6

Appearance - 8 | Aroma - 8 | Flavor - 7 | Texture - 8 | Overall - 7.5

Wineglass showing pale amber with sparse white foam. The nose shows moderately intense notes of brett, sweet caramel, and light notes of steel tank and grass. The palate is well carbonated and light bodied. Gently tart with a mild sweetness and light notes of steel tank and biscuit.

9

Appearance - 8 | Aroma - 9 | Flavor - 9 | Texture - 10 | Overall - 9

Sample from bottle. Lemon, oak, vanilla, pineapple and lychee in the aroma. Sour flavor with lemon, honey, oak, pineapple. Well rounded and matured. Amazingly complex. Great gueuze!