Score
7.64
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Shared bottle at Bryne tasting. Slightly hazy golden colour. Lovely brettanomyces / farmhouse aroma. Medium sour brettanomyces flavour, spicy, lemons.
One of my many treasured memories in my long 'career' of beer tasting, is when I noticed Frank Boon at one of the 'Weekend der Spontane Gisting' editions some twenty years ago, teaching one of his two sons how to taste lambics, from all the lambic producers who were in existence at the time. The scene moved me, and I remember thinking of how young the boy still was - and how privileged, perhaps... Now both of them have grown up, and the time has come for them to take over the brewery and blendery that their famous father started; this 'Apogée' is officially the last geuze created by Frank, together with his sons, as a symbolic torch being passed from one generation to another; for that reason, this blend consists of two year old lambic from the brewery's newest barrel and three year old lambic from the oldest - it cannot get any more symbolical, but note that it does not contain any one year old lambic, so that strictly legally speaking, it does not even qualify as 'oude' geuze if the legal definition is to be taken literally... Never mind, though: Frank Boon was a key figure and pioneer in the lambic revival, which grew very slowly in the first decades after he started blending (brewing only came in around 1990), but has seen a huge upsurge in the past few years - so I am completely confident about this blend, bottled in late April so now just over seven months old. Opens with quite some pressure and a bit of 'gun smoke', but no gushing. Audibly fizzing, eggshell-white, uneven-bubbled, moussy head, thick at first but diminishing quickly, until a thin ring of irregular mousse is retained, over an initially near-clear, strongly 'champenoise' sparkling, warm yellow-golden robe with deeper apricot hue, turning misty and eventually yellow-cloudy 'deeper into the bottle'. Aroma of dry hay, dusty attic, oxidized green apple, dried garden weeds, dry and dusty oak wood, old pumpkin seeds, very old books, desiccated lemon peel, hints of goat stable, cracked old leather, champagne 'brut', peach kernels, minerals (brick dust), dry sherry peeping around the corner when warming up, flour. Dry, crisp onset, lots of champagne-like sparkling and minerality fit for a geuze and lifting up the flavours, this time mostly encompassing notes of oxidized green apple slices (turning brown), unripe nectarine (but softly so with not too much astringency) and dried apricot, over a soft, smooth and clearly 'mals' character of lactic acidity - but remaining low in sharper sourness. Smooth but 'full' wheatiness, flour-like almost, with bread-crusty barley edges, a firm backbone of grains under ongoing 'green' and unripe fruitiness, champagne- and dry sherry-like flavours (probably mostly from the oldest of the two lambics) and remarkably soft, gently drying lactic acid; emphatic woodiness in the end, the tannins underscoring the general dryness of this geuze but also the nobility of it, all in a soft, gentle yet deep manner. The old dry sherry notes reoccur retronasally along with green apple, dried plant seed and hayish aspects, interwoven with a clear Brett effect (Michael Jackson's proverbial horseblanket) - but even in that respect, everything remains fairly gentle, 'mals' and balanced. A dim underlying 'old hops' bitterness ties everything together in the end - and a slight hint at lemon juice briefly and subtly lingers after swallowing, much later than usual in a geuze, in my experience at least, but harsh acidity never shows up. Typical Frank Boon approach, notably 'mals', but the age of the lambics - very importantly in the absence of young lambic - creates a noble, 'deep', dry sherry-ish, mature and serene character, more so than usual even for a Boon geuze. Very classy variation on the theme and certainly classy enough to raise the glass to the man who played such a pivotal role in saving lambic from complete oblivion: cheers mister Frank, you will be missed but I do not doubt that the brewery is in goods hands with Karel and Jos. A memorable drink to a memorable occasion!
23/XI/21 - 75cl bottle, shared @ HoReCa Expo (Gent), BBE: 2039, Nr. 03521 (2021-1498) Thanks to the Ghent beer posse for sharing today’s beers!
Pretty cloudy orange beer, small creamy off-white head, stable, bit adhesive. Aroma: lovely, very nice, fruity, good brett, fruity, agrum fruits, juicy, nice! MF: ok carbon, medium body. Taste: nice acidity, lots of lemon, fruity, juicy, some tangerines, good, peaches and apricots. Aftertaste: dry and sourish, citrus notes, bit dusty, lots of brett, nice beer!
Small just off-white head over orangey copper beer. Clean horseblanket, wheat, old wood, lactic acid, bit of solvent - yet absolutely mild, mals . Fine, direct lemony, titillating flavour and feel, enhanced by the good carbonation. Yet overall mild lactic acid, saddlesoap. Gradually sourish apples, gooseberry, and warming up a bit, sherry-like notes appearing, amontillado. Fine carbonation, bit wheatslick, light body. Just as expected from Franks parting shot: MALS - or the perfect marriage.
Huge thnx to Wim for bringing this bottle pre-release for me to sample ! Pours a bit unclear blonde, medium small white head. Scent is full, juicy typical Boon fruityness. Taste is full, high carbo. Citrussy, woody, fruity acidity. Some apple (Malic acid) . Elegant, oh so refined. Noticably dry, characterfull creation that's unmistakingly Boon. Medium body, very bright. Lovely, and the ideal, personal bottle to close the chapter on Frank Boon, one of the biggest masterminds the world of lambic has ever known. Now let's see how the second generation @BOON will continue the saga .
Runder spritziger Säureantrunk bei leicht erhöhter Karbonisierung. Weich, trockener Hintergrund, vollmundig, etwas getreidig, langer Nachhall. Langer, vollmundig säuerlicher Abgang, Trauben. 10/12/12/12/13/12